I Made it Monday Easy Key Fobs Tutorial

I Made it Monday

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Easy to Sew Key Fobs

A while ago my mini me asked me to make her a key fob. We talked about what she wanted, measured a few scraps to her wrist to determine length, gathered the hardware and then ... nothing. All of the notes and ideas sat on a table in my craft room and waited. Like lots of other ideas, it got pushed to the back burner. Last week I finally sat down to work on it and here's what I came up with ...

Materials

• 1/4 yard of fabric (fat quarters work fine)
• Basic sewing supplies: machine, needle, thread, scissors, iron, ruler, you know, the basic stuff.
• Fusible interfacing. I used fusible fleece for some and lightweight fusible interfacing for others. The thicker your stabilizer the stiffer your key fob. It is really a matter of preference and what you have on hand.
• Key fob hardware. I used 1.25" hardware. You can find it at craft stores like Michael's and Joann or online in a variety of places. I bought mine from Amazon. 
• Pliers to attach hardware and some kind of scrap fabric to prevent scratches.

After you have gathered your supplies your nearly halfway there. Seriously. These are super quick and easy. Not only did I make one at my daughter's request but I made extras for Teacher Appreciation Week, thank you gifts for Girl Scout troop leaders, Mother's Day gifts for my Mom and Gramma who love to get home made gifts, and I'm even planning to make some in school colors for my middle daughter's friends for their senior trip coming up next month. Cute, quick, easy. What more could you ask for?

Step 1.

Cut your fabric 10 1/2" x 5".

Step 2.

Cut your fusible interfacing 10 1/2" x 5". If you choose to go with a thicker fusible product like fusible fleece cut it 10 1/2" x 1 1/4". If you're unsure which you want to use keep reading. I made a few notes about my preference towards the bottom.

I cut a few different types of interfacing so I could test them. The left is standard lightweight fusible interfacing. The center is a fusible fleece cut to measure the entire fabric. The right is a quarter strip of fusible fleece.

Step 3. 

This step varies if you're using fusible interfacing or fusible fleece.

*If you're using lightweight fusible interfacing*

Iron the fusible interfacing to the fabric according to the directions. Once it is adhered, fold your fabric in half long ways, wrong sides together, and iron. 

With lightweight interfacing attached.

Fold in half long ways and iron.

Next, open the fabric and fold the sides in to the center crease creating a quarter fold. Iron again.

Then, fold the two halves together on the original crease and press.

*If you're using fusible fleece*

Fold your fabric in half long ways, wrong sides together, and iron.

Next, open the fabric and fold the sides in to the center crease creating a quarter fold. Iron again.

Then, tuck the strip of fusible fleece inside one of the folds you created by folding in to the center. Be sure to tuck the strip in as close as possible to the fold. Attach the fusible fleece according to the directions. 

Then, fold the two halves together on the original crease and press.

Step 4.

Sew a few straight lines. Top stitch the long sides about 1/4" from the edge. I prefer to sew the creased side first then the side with the two folds together. I find that it helps prevent any possible shifting.

I prefer to use the red notch on my foot as a guide.

Step 5. 

Attach the hardware. To prevent scratches on your hardware you'll want to put something between the hardware and your pliers. I actually use a scrap of fabric that also serves as my pressing cloth. Fold the key fob strip in half so that the raw edges are together and place them between the "teeth" in the hardware. I prefer to hold it in my hand sandwiched in between my scrap of fabric. That way I can see the sides and be sure that it isn't shifting and still clamp it closed. If you're having problems with shifting you can also pin the sides together to prevent any shifting while you clamp it. This was by far the hardest step, especially trying to photograph it, but once I found what worked for me it was easy to clamp them all in just a few minutes. After you have clamped it shut the last thing to do is attach the key ring.

It's very hard to take a picture of something that already requires two hands. Just imagine my other hand holding the pliers.

* A note about stabilizer*

I had several types of stabilizer on hand so I tried a few different kinds, standard lightweight fusible interfacing like what is used in collars on clothing, fusible fleece (Pellon 987F), and Peltex Ultra Firm Stabilizer (Pellon 72F). In the end I felt the Peltex Ultra Firm was too firm. The fusible fleece is great if you want a little more stability but only when it is used as a small strip. I tried it covering the entire rectangle of fabric and it seemed to thick. The standard lightweight fusible interfacing was the easiest to work with in my opinion and provided a similar result to the strip of fusible fleece. My only concern is that it may not wear as well the fusible fleece and may soon be limp and lifeless. In the end I prefer the strip of fusible fleece. 

* A note about hardware*

If you bought 1" hardware you'll need to cut your fabric 10 1/2" by 4" and cut your fusible interfacing the same for lightweight or 10 1/2" by 1" for fusible fleece.

Who will you make a cute key fob for?

Be sure to follow me on Pinterest, as well as Facebook, and find my designs at Applique Time. Check back next week to see my next I Made it Monday post. 

Regards,

Bridgette 

I Made it Monday Hugs & Kisses Valentine Decoration

I Made it Monday

Join me on my ongoing quest to share tips, tricks, projects, and recipes along with just about anything else on I Made it Monday.

Hugs & Kisses Valentine Decoration

This weekend my youngest daughter and I set out to make a Valentine craft. By this I mean, I desperately wanted to pull her away from her electronics in a way that wasn't so obvious to her by making a cute Valentine decoration together. I also got in a tiny little Mom "win" since I was able to save the obvious "that's enough electronics today" for later that evening.

Supplies
Dollar store or clearance picture frames
Decorative or solid craft paper
Vinyl cutter (I have a Silhouette Cameo) or Printer
Vinyl if needed
Scissors
Ribbon if you so choose

I bought three of these picture frames on clearance at Target just after Christmas. I'm sure that they were intended for Christmas but the sparkly red said Valentines to me. At only $1 each I really couldn't pass them up. If you can't find clearance picture frames you can always check the dollar store. I think black frames would be just as cute with a red, white, and pink color scheme for the paper and vinyl.

We were trying very hard to work with what we had on hand. I didn't have enough of the blue paper or pink for all of the frame so we decided to have two with blue and one with pink. This also allowed for two different colors of words so I didn't mind. We were having a hard time deciding colors anyway. I cut the paper to fit inside the frame and my daughter put them together. For some reason she was really excited to do that part. After that we sat down to create the words in Silhouette Studio and cut them in vinyl. If you don't have a vinyl cutter don't be discouraged. You could print the words on your paper from your computer. Just play around with some fonts and see what you like, then print it out on your chosen paper. Vinyl is just an option. I would suggest printing it out first then cutting your paper to fit inside the frame. This will probably take a little more planning to decide where the placement of the word should be on the paper but I know you can handle it.

For our frames the paper is behind the glass but the vinyl is on the outside. I do wish that I had put the word "kisses" a little higher but not enough that I was going to cut more vinyl and start over. I'm already thinking I may do it again, next year of course, with a different font. I was looking for a romantic, cursive font, but I'm already thinking chunky and fun for next year. Luckily the frames were inexpensive and are easy to change. Don't be surprised if you see these resurface with white and blue for 4th of July, and maybe green during Christmas. Don't you love a versatile craft project?

You could use ribbon to attach the frames to one another and make a vertical wall hanging or just to add little bows to the frames. We chose to display them as they are on a table in the foyer. I like the idea of a wall hanging but for some reason I already have a lot of Valentine wall decorations.

We're working on a few other decorations to add to the table so the frames don't look so lonely. Right now my silly daughter likes to rearrange them to say Kisses and Hugs when I'm not looking.

Do you have a versatile way to craft with picture frames? 

Be sure to follow me on Pinterest, as well as Facebook, and find my designs at Applique Time. Check back next week to see my next I Made it Monday post. 

Regards,
Bridgette 

I Made it Monday Holiday Pillowcases

I Made it Monday

Last week I introduced a new plan to kick start my blog and hopefully get me back to posting somewhat regularly. Every week on Monday I will try to post something that I made. This week I'm sharing a gift that I made with my daughter as a "Going to College" gift for her best friend. The truth is we made it last year but hey, it's Monday and I made it so it works. If you want to share your IMIM creations please feel free to in the comments or on my Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/AppliqueTime.

Holiday Pillowcases

When my daughter graduated from high school a few years ago a dear family friend sent her several things that she made for her in her new college school colors. One of those things was a beautiful pillowcase that she put on her pillow when we unpacked her in her new dorm room. When it came time to start sending care packages I decided to start sending similar pillowcases only holiday themed. Coming from a house that is typically decorated for whatever the upcoming holiday is my daughter was really missing out on the family decorations and I thought this would be a good way to at least bring a little "holiday" into her dorm. When her best friend went away to college the following year she wanted to do the same for her.

I used the tutorial found on Twiddletails blog, http://twiddletails.blogspot.com/2010/05/pillowcases-pillowcases.html. It's very easy to follow and the pictures are helpful too. The only thing I changed (and she talks about it on the post) is the trim strip. I chose to cut my trim piece 1 3/4 inches wide. This is just a slight difference and probably doesn't make enough difference for most people to care. The other thing to know is if you are using directional fabric for the main fabric you may need a larger cut. Here's how to tell ...

If you are holding the bolt of fabric horizontally and the fabric is the right direction, meaning you can read the print or the animals or images are the right direction and you don't have to turn the bolt, then you will need 1 1/2 yds of fabric. When you are cutting the main fabric keep this in mind and fold the fabric accordingly. 

If you are holding the bolt of fabric vertically and the fabric is the right direction then you will need just the 3/4 yd and can cut it according to the tutorial. For non-directional fabric go with the 3/4 yd.

If you're really having fun making pillowcases but have no one to give them to check with your local hospital. I have read where many hospitals, especially children's hospitals, accept pillowcases to give their young patients to brighten up their rooms.

I've made several since these, including one last week at the request of my middle daughter for a birthday gift for a friend. They really are fun since they are so quick and easy and look beautiful. Go ahead, give it a try. I doubt you will be disappointed.

Here are a few pictures of the pillowcases we made. We made an Easter themed one as well but it went in an early gift package and didn't make the group pics. I included close ups of the Thanksgiving and Christmas fabrics because they were just so stinkin' cute.

 

Another simple elastic waist skirt!

Remember my post about how I make a simple elastic waist skirt? I decided I wanted to make the same skirt but with three fabrics instead of two so I'm back again with yet another easy tutorial. This one is just as simple with only two measurements, one simple math problem, and straight lines to sew. Don't worry, you can do it!

You will need ...

waist band fabric, 3/8 yard 
main fabric, for most this will be 5/8 yard or less depending on the desired length (for a 15" length I was able to use exactly 1/2 yard)
contrast fabric, 1/2 yard 
measuring tape 
scissors 
rotary cutter and cutting mat (don't worry if you don't have them, it just makes things easier)
thread
7/8 inch elastic although I often use 1/2 inch if that's what I have on hand

iron, sewing machine, you know, the typical stuff if you want to sew

You will need two measurements. The child's waist and the desired length. If you're unsure about what the length should be try measuring something in her closet that is the length you're looking for. My daughter is a skinny little thing and has a 23 1/2" waist and although she has grown a lot I only want her skirt to be about 15" long. She likes to pull her skirts down on her hips so if I make it longer it will be past her knees. I've spent a lot of time over the last year pulling her skirts up only to have her pull them back down. Now it's time to just sew them the way that works for us both.

Now, the simple math. 

Waist Band Fabric
Cut 2 pieces the width of the waist x 5 1/4" long. This will ultimately yield a waist band that is approximately 3 1/4" wide. For me, I will cut 2 pieces that are each 23 1/2" x 5 1/4".

If you are making a skirt for a waist 20" or smaller you can cut 1 piece on the fold.

Main fabric
Here is that one math problem I mentioned. Prepare yourself. Subtract 6" from your overall desired length. For me that will be 9" (15 minus 6). We will call this your adjusted length. That wasn't so bad was it?

Cut 2 pieces the width of the waist and the adjusted length. Again for me, that will be 2 pieces that are each 23 1/2" x 9".

Remember, if you are making a skirt for a waist 20" or smaller just cut 1 piece on the fold. 

Contrast fabric
Cut 2 pieces the width of the waist x 7 3/4" long. This will ultimately yield a contrast band that is approximately 3 1/2" wide. This means I will have 2 pieces, each 23 1/2" x 7 3/4".

And still, if you are making a skirt for a waist 20" or smaller you can cut 1 piece on the fold.

That's it for the cutting and the math. At this point you should have 6 pieces (3 for 20" waist or smaller). Now it's time to sew a few straight lines. For all seams the allowance is 3/8". 

Waist fabric 
With right sides together sew each side seam. I prefer to overcast mine when I am finished since I don't have a serger. If you are working with a smaller waist and cut 1 piece on the fold you only have 1 side seam to sew.

Main fabric  
With rights sides together sew each side seam. Overcast or serge if desired. If you are working with a smaller waist you only have 1 side seam here too.

Contrast fabric
With right sides together sew each side seam. Do NOT overcast or serge these seams. They will need to lie flat in a few minutes. If you are working with a smaller waist you still only have 1 side seam here as well.

Notice that the contrast fabric is not overcast but the main and waist fabrics are.

Still working with the contrast fabric that you didn't serge or overcast, press the seams open. Fold and iron the contrast fabric in half, right sides out, to create the contrast band. This is why we didn't serge or overcast the seams on the contrast. They are now tucked away neatly within the band.

Now you should have 3 tubes with only the contrast band folded in half. 

So far we have worked from the top down. Now I like to work from the bottom up. 

Next we are going to attach the contrast band to the main fabric.

Begin by pinning the contrast band to the bottom on the main band, right sides together starting with matching the side seams. If you are using directional fabrics be sure to check and make sure they are going to be facing the right direction before you sew. Once you've checked go ahead and sew the two fabrics together. I prefer to overcast here as well. 

Next, iron open with the inseam up. On the right side, using the seam as a guide, sew along to tack the inseam up. If you wanted to add ric rac this is a great place to do so. 

Now it's time to attach the waist fabric to the main fabric.

Begin by pinning the waist fabric to the main fabric right sides together. It's a good idea to check directional fabric here also. Now sew and if you prefer overcast the seam here as well. 

Next, iron open with the inseam down this time. This is a personal preference for me. If you want to iron the inseam pointing up here you certainly can. My little princess can some times get fussy over tags and things on her skin so I iron it down in hopes that it is less likely to rub her the wrong way. On the right side, using the seam as a guide again, sew along to tack the inseam whichever direction you prefer. The picture shows me sewing it with the inseam down.

The only thing left to do is create the casing for the waist and insert the elastic. You'll be finished in no time.

When creating a casing I always like to overcast the raw edge before I start. I don't know why. I'm sure I saw it or read it somewhere. You don't have to. I doubt anything would really happen if you didn't but I do.

Next, I press under approximately 3/8" of the raw edge and then another 1 1/4" to create the casing. 

Sew close to the lower edge of the casing leaving an opening to insert the elastic. 

Using a safety pin (because that's how my mom taught me) I then insert the elastic through the casing. I typically start with my waist measurement plus 1" for the elastic length. Once the elastic is through I pin the elastic ends together (maybe this is why I start with a safety pin) and try the skirt on. Of course the elastic always needs to be adjusted but that is simple. After adjusting the fit I sew the elastic together, distribute the fullness, and stitch the opening close (which I forgot to take a picture of).

I also make a habit of stitching in the ditch on the side seams to try to keep the elastic from shifting or twisting.

Now the only thing, and I do mean only thing, left to do is admire your work. You're finished! You made a super cute skirt using three different fabrics and hopefully had a little fun.

A few housekeeping items ...

The fabrics used are from Windham Fabrics Cabana Blooms collection and I purchased it from my favorite fabric shop, Material Girls Quilt Boutique in La Plata, Maryland.

The applique design used on the shirt is actually the frame from my Scalloped Bunny design. I skipped the bunny steps and merged in a capital H from 8 Claws and a Paw's Candi font. 

The shirt is from ARB Blanks. This was the first time that I used their shirts. They ship unbelievably quickly and the shirts are a very nice quality. I do think they have a trim, feminine fit (the girls at least) which is fine as long as you are paying attention to the size chart when ordering. 

I did make the headband from a combination of patterns and tutorials. I'll work on a tutorial for that another day so check back soon.

Thanks for reading!

Blessings,
Bridgette

How I Make a Simple Elastic Waist Skirt with a Scalloped Edge

Have you seen my simple elastic waist skirt tutorial? Ready to try something slightly different? This tutorial will show you how to make a simple skirt with a scalloped edge. Don't worry if you think you're reading the same instructions as my other skirt tutorial. I copied and pasted a lot of it because they are a lot alike.

You will need ...
main fabric, 1 yard or less depending on the size
contrast fabric, 1/2 yard or less depending on the size
measuring tape 
scissors (pinking shears will be helpful too)
rotary cutter and cutting mat (don't worry if you don't have them, it just makes things easier)
thread
7/8 inch elastic although I often use 1/2 inch if that's what I have on hand

iron, sewing machine, you know, the typical stuff if you want to sew
a marking pen or chalk
a compass or something for drawing semi circles (I used my big Pyrex measuring bowl ... really!)

First, you will want to measure the waist of your child and decide what finished length you like. Right now my daughter is 6 years old. She has a 22" waist and I like her skirts to be about 14" long. 

Now, some simple math.

Main Fabric Subtract 1/2" from your desired length. For me that will be 13 1/2" (14 minus 1/2). We will call this your adjusted length.

Cut 2 pieces the width of the waist and the adjusted length. Again for me, that will be 22 x 13 1/2.

If you are working with a waist 20" or smaller just cut one piece on the fold.

Contrast Fabric

Cut 2 pieces the width of the waist x 7" long. This will ultimately yield a contrast band that is approximately 3 inches wide. 

Again, if you are making a skirt for a waist 20" or smaller you can cut 1 piece on the fold.

Now it's time to sew a few straight lines. For all seams the allowance is 3/8". 

Main fabric

With right sides together sew each side seam. I prefer to overcast mine when I am finished since I don't have a serger. If you are working with a smaller waist and previously cut 1 piece on the fold you only have 1 side seam to sew.

Contrast fabric

With right sides together sew each side seam. Do NOT overcast or serge these seams. They will need to lie flat in a few minutes. If you are working with a smaller waist you only have 1 side seam here too.

Press the seams open. Fold and iron the contrast fabric in half, right sides together. This is where we will work on the scallops. 

Now it's time to make a few marks so we can begin to draw the scallops. Using a straight edge and a marking pen or chalk mark a horizontal line along the middle of the band, adjusting the band to extend your mark completely around.

It's time for a little more math but nothing too complicated. I think it's harder for me to explain. Take the width of your original fabric pieces and double it. The width should be the waist measurement which for me was 22 so double that is 44. This is the combined length of the two pieces before seam allowances. Now, subtract 1 1/2 for the seam allowances. That leaves me with 42 1/2. Basically I'm trying to calculate how much "band" I have to divide into scallops. Now divide that number by 10. For me that is 42.5/10=4.25. This means that each of my 10 scallops should be 4 1/4 inches wide. I was very lucky and ended up with an easy measurement. Depending on the width of your waist you may not be. It's okay though. The skirt has a gathered waist so it is forgiving. Your scallops don't have to be perfectly even so do your best and be happy. Now, starting at a seam, measure and mark the width of your scallops along your horizontal line. You should have width marks to allow for 5 scallops on each side.

Mark your scallop width along the horizontal line.

Now that you have your marks you need the scallops. This is where the compass or other round item comes into place. I used my big Pyrex measuring bowl. Hey I said it was an easy pattern, not sophisticated. My bowl had a diameter of just about 4 1/4 inches so it was perfect for me and yes, I was standing in my kitchen with my measuring tape checking bowls and plates for something that was close enough.

Starting at the side seam place your round object between two marks. Be sure that it is almost at the fold of your fabric but not quite and trace the lower half. Repeat this step for each of the 10 scallops adjusting where you need. When you are finished you should have 10 scallops drawn on your fabric, 5 on each side.

  

See how the scallops come almost to the fold but not quite? That's what you're aiming for.

After you have drawn all of the scallops it's time to stitch them. Simply stitch over the lines that you've drawn being sure to lift your presser foot to turn at each point and really whenever you need to help your fabric around. This isn't a difficult stitch but you do need to be patient to be sure that you are staying on your marks reasonably well and that you're guiding the fabric around. If you try to go to fast you will end up with jagged scallops. Just take your time and work your way around.

Okay, you're getting there. No more math, no more curves to sew, just some trimming and ironing then putting the pieces together.

Now that your scallops are sewn you need to trim the excess fabric away. I prefer to use my pinking shears for this because it helps when it's time to turn the fabric out. Whether you use pinking shears or not be patient and trim reasonably close to the stitches. You'll want to make sure to cut away all of the folded edge at the bottom of your scallops. The points will need a little extra trimming to help them lie flat when they are turned. Be sure to trim away as much as possible on the side seams and cut a small slit as close to the point as possible for each one. After the trimming is done turn the scallops out and start ironing. I use the tip of a child's paint brush to push the fabric out. If you have points that aren't turning well you may need to go back and trim more fabric away. I had a few that I had to go back on and trim more away. 

You're in the home stretch. Now, pin the contrast band to the main band, right sides together, starting with matching the side seams. Sew, serge or overcast.

Next, iron open with the seam up. On the right side, using the seam as a guide, sew along to tack the seam up. If you wanted to add ric rac this is a great place to do so. 

In order to keep a straight line I keep the side of the foot lined up to the seam. 

The only thing left is to create the elastic casing and insert the elastic.

When creating a casing I always like to overcast the raw edge before I start. I don't know why. I'm sure I saw it or read it somewhere. You don't have to. I doubt anything would really happen if you didn't but I do.

Next, I press under approximately 3/8" of the raw edge and then another 1 1/4" to create the casing. Sew close to the lower edge of the casing leaving an opening to insert the elastic.

Using a safety pin (because that's how my mom taught me) I then insert the elastic through the casing. I typically start with my waist measurement plus 1" for the length. Once the elastic is through I pin the elastic ends together (maybe this is why I start with a safety pin) and try the skirt on. Of course the elastic always needs to be adjusted but that is simple. After adjusting the fit I sew the elastic together, distribute the fullness, and stitch the opening close. I also make a habit of stitching in the ditch on the side seams to try to keep the elastic from shifting or twisting.

Guess what's next. Nothing! You're finished. The only thing to do now is make another one now that you have the hang of it.

Truthfully I have rewritten the "scallop" directions at least 5 times. It is so much easier to just show someone than it is to put it in writing. If you have a question or a better way of saying something please feel free to comment. 

For those of you who applique here is a free design. This little bird is one of my very first designs. I actually used some of the same fabric as this skirt to test it more than a year ago. You can find the rest of my designs on my website as well as a 30% off Labor Day sale through 09/03/12. 

Cheers,

Bridgette